I’m not sure if there are three capital cities geographically closer together than Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest; honestly, you could probably day trip all of them if you wanted to.
The countryside is mostly flat agricultured farm land, with numerous small to medium sized towns slowly being linked by a motorway system under construction. In the meantime, one must regularly contend with average-surfaced roads passing through the middle of the towns. Travelling has become rather tedious in the last few days, except for a short reprieve of twisty, lush forrested mountain roads heading north east from Bratislava. Due to the tardiness of a particular UK motoring agency I am forgoing further travels into the north and east of Slovakia to make up some time; pity, looking at the promising terrain I saw. Of note, Banska Stiavnica is an absolute corker of a well preserved (UNESCO listed) town to visit, should you find yourself in the area. Prosperous in its hey-day from mining of the rich post-volcanic area, the small town hosts grand architecture, a botanic garden and the impressive Jesuit ‘Kalvaria’.
The Danube river, common to all three countries and cities, also features a number of interesting towns in the area leading up to Budapest from the west. Esztergom features an absolute attention grabbing (nay, dominating) basilica on the hill overlooking the city. Szentendre is an wonderfully pleasant tourist town, pretty as punch, where you sense the residents have pride and love living there. Which brings us, somewhat jarringly out of my countryside small town meanderings, to Budapest.
To Budapest transport department: Please put up more street name signs! Luckily GoogleMaps decided to work and guide me safely, albeit hot and sweaty, to my hostel. It’s sights are spread out far across the city, so bring your comfy walking shoes if you intend on visiting. The long tiring walks however, are rewarded with interesting architecture – the Buda Castle, St Istvan Basilica and Heroes Square are classic and grand, whereas others like the Vajdahunzad Castle and Fishermans’ Bastion are a clash of styles and eras (art nouveu, roman, renaissance blend, with a hint of communisim anyone?); perhaps its to do with the fact that about 80% of the city was destroyed in during WW2. Also, don’t miss out on the classically built metro system, hardly changed since its completion in the late 19th century.
Where the city really shines however, is at night…literally. Almost all of the prominent buildings are lit up in a sandy-orange phosphorous hue, turning the riverside skyline into a city of gold. I am abolsutely in awe of this city at night, and idylly walking by the river taking in the sights, hearing the Danube calmly lapping nearby and the wonderful atmosphere of people similiarly enjoying the night is hard to beat. It’s seriously up there as a ‘must do once in your life’, plus the affordability of the city makes it all the more attractive.
Tomorrow I head further east through Hungary, then into Romania. Rosie is singing along, having just clicked over 70000 miles, and I’m feeling charged up from Budapest’s delights, so I can’t wait to see what else is in store. Now, if only the mosquitoes will bugger off…
Regards,
Kenny
Bratislava
Budapest by night
Esztergom Basilica
Budapest metro
kenny overland 